Contest: Forged Hope

by Raffa aka Picster

Hey everyone!

Time for another big contest in the Jungle!
But this time we are not alone, we are sponsored and supported be Heroes & Villains Miniatures to bring you this unique painting contest.

Maybe, let's not start with a wall of text, but with a small comic strip I've done to get you in the mood...

Your job is to forge and build more robots!

They can be all kind of robots:
Trash-Collector 2000, Crop-Harvest-o-Mat MK4, Autonomous Elder-Over-The-Street-Helper 2X4, Town-Guard-Bot III ... options are endless!

Just imagine this town and its needs and you will quickly find ideas for new robots.

Luckily the "First One" just brought in a new batch of robot parts:
Pick them up here!
And don't forget to use the secret coupon code "3086" to get some extra 10% discount!
This discount is only valid for 1 month!

When your bot is done, please put him up in the e-Brain activation line to soon be helping townsfolk!
And do you know what's best about being a part in the Forged Hope program?
If your bot makes it to line assembly you will win a robot for your home! How nice is that?!

Here are the prizes:
First prize:
You have the chance to win this one-of-a-kind, converted and painted version of the RK1-Outworld done by Roman "Jarhead" Lappat.

Second prize:
For the second prize, you can win the original promotional paintjob version painted by Alex "Iguazzu" Varela.

Third prize:
To be announced

Will be nothing short of the first and second prize :)

Ok, now for some real rules:
- Create and paint a robot using the RK1 Outworld kit from Heroes and Villains Miniatures.
- You may add additional parts to your liking, sculpt or convert, but it must base on the RK1 kit.
- Contest is ending on 13-July-2014 16:00 GMT
- Send photos of your finished robot creation via mail to "picster (at) massivevoodoo (dot) com" using the subject line "Forged Hope Entry". Please include a piece of paper with yor robots name written on it on the photo for proof of ownership. You can use this template.
- You can send ONE entry per person.
- IMPORTANT: Please include your robots name and your idea of the job he does in the community, this will be part of your entry and will also be judged!
- Winners will be announced one week after the contest. All entries will also be shown in a post. Judging will be done by Raffa & Roman.

I think that's it! Let's go!

If there are any more questions, post them in the comments and I try to include them in the rules.

Good luck and have fun!


by Roman aka jar

Chaos Space Marine Lord

by Roman aka jar


recently I managed to finish one of my comission pieces:
The Chaos Space Marine Lord from GW's "Dark Vengeance" box.

This was really a very interesting comission as the comissioner told me pretty exactly what colour to use on what area, refering to older figures of mine as examples. This was first, honestly really confusing me, but I told myself to give it a try. For example such were some of his words: "Sword's blade should be like right leg of your daemonette 7.0 and cape exterior like the wings of your Vampire Lord. The base should catch the same athmosphere as the one build for my version of Dark Vlad" and many more, just for you to get a better picture of what I was painting here.

Like I told you, first this was really confusing me, but I accepted the challenge and it was fun going back to my older figures to get the reference on how to paint different areas on the figure. What I can say is that I was confused by another matter: Those CSM have way too many details on such a small figure, I was close to going mad. Well, in the end I was happy with the result, let me know what you think of him...

Chaos Space Marine Lord
Games Workshop, 28 mm


Keep on happy painting!
Best Wishes

Painting Class in Vienna, Austria

by Peter aka Baphomet

Hey guys and girls,

a new painting class is ahead :)
This time it will take place in beautiful Vienna, Austria.
We´re looking forward to be in this location again.

Date is: 23th until 25th of May 2014

There are only 10 slots left, so be quick :-)

Here you´ll get further information (german):

If you´ll need the painting class information in English or if you´d like to help us organizing a class in your hometown, check this link:


Mu 45/Tutorial - ModelMates - Rust Effects

by Roman aka jar

Time for another look on some new hobby material via MV's Miniature Unpacked, but this time it is a mixture of unpacking, testing and some kind of tutorial.

You might know that MV is well known to have a look on very interesting products outthere. Combined with our everyday painting of an average of eight hours since several years, we can also provide a good look on new material with practical experience.

This said, I want to introduce a company to you I really enjoy lately.
Their products are mainly aimed for the hobby of Scale Models, at least this is what their page communicates, but I am sure this will change a lot in the future as their products are also great for our hobby of miniature painting. Let me introduce to you:

I did get in contact with one of their products when Battlefield-Berlin sent me one bottle of "Normal Rust" and I got convinced by the result I recieved by using it. Modelmates has no shop on its own and is selling via different dealers in different countries. You can find a list of their retailers here!

Meanwhile I am happy to announce that Modelmates is now official sponsor of MV Painting Classes and participants on our classes can find out why we like their products that much on their own, testing and experiencing them during the classes.

In this review I will take a look on their Rust Effect Liquid.
There will be more later on as their list of products is much bigger and MV is in the middle of experiments with them and is recieving very, very cool results.

"Please know that this is just my own experience with these products. I tell you honestly what I do like and don't. I can not assure you that you will make the same experience as you might have a different taste or different requirements than I have."


Rust Effect Liquid

Every Miniature Painter gets confronted with painting rust some day. If you are painting historical figures, fantasy- or science-fiction-figures or vehicles. It does not really matter one day or the other you want to place some rust somewhere. Material weathers, changes by the influance of its sorrounding world.

Massive Voodoo has a lot of articles about "Weathering".
You can find even more if you take a closer look into the jungle's article section.

Painting rust takes time if you want to recieve a proper result. You can just do it with some normal acrylic colours, using different colours that catch the tone of rust and combine them. You can add pigments to it to make it look more dry and dusty. There are some really cool special colours outthere, but I was not yet convinced by any as I was with this product. I made a first test with my first bottle of ModelMates Rust Normal Effect some months ago on a piece of plastic and this is what I got:

I wanted to give this a deeper test as the result was just too good by just taking it out of the bottle.
Now lets have this deeper look. All three of ModelMates rust liquids in the jungle test.

From left to right, this is what the page of Modelmates says:

Rust Yellow Effect (left):
Lighter, younger yellow rust colour, ideal for final highlight coats.

Rust Normal Effect (middle):
Original rust effect. A fantastic realistic rust effect for most situations.

Rust Copper Effect (right):
Darker, older brown/red copper rust colour, ideal for older rust colours.

I had my first experiences with the "Normal Effect", but in this review I want to take a closer look on all of them. I was really positivly surprised to see the describtion text at the bottles in german, as I knew Modelmates is based in the UK. So this is already a plus, for me as a german speaker and all the german speakers on my painting classes. I also have some bottles with english text on it - don't you worry - so international the use of this rust effect is also explained well.

Ok, now I want to show you what I think makes this a fantastic product for us miniature painters. I am opening up the bottles and just place its content on a white sheet of paper. Having some fun with it. 

Very important is to use an older brush for it, do not take your new Windsor&Newton for it. Shake the bottles well. They have a metal ball inside to really get everything inside mixed up properly. Shake until you hear the ball and then shake some more. Shake it like a saltshaker!

Well, this is how it looks if taken out of the bottle. I applied it thicker or thinned with water to see how it looks. Testing. What I really enjoy is the rough surface that appears, it already looks like rust if you have a closer look. Now it was time to do experiments, placing several layers on top of the first ones ... good thing is, you can thin it water at the start of your work or even use water after the applyment to remove or change it a little bit.

Yellow Effect first applyment:

Yellow Effect
second applyment, thicker layers on top 

Normal Effect
, first applyment

Normal Effect
, second run

                               Copper Effect, first run, thinned in the front, thicker in the back

Going a little mad on the Copper Effect, testing several layers, thinned and less thinned ...

Going mad for testing with the Normal Effect here, same procedure, wild style:

Doing the same to the Light Effect, well with my madness and the thickness I used it is not that light anymore :D

So, this is just the initial test and hell yeah it was fun, you can believe that. What I was learning in between is that you should not leave your bottles open as the upper border, touched by air starts to dry. Take care of that, don't forget to close your colours when you are done with using them.

If you forget ... it looks like this, try to avoid that ... seriously!

Now I want to combine all three of them in a wild test. Let's see how this turned out, again wild style:

It also says on the bottles that these effects are water soluble. That is a nice thing to know. It means if you apply it to a surface you are still able to work with it. You can pull it, damp it, even remove most of it when using time and water. Makes your tests less dangerous. If it is dry you can not easily rub it off with your fingers. Cool thing is, as soon as another layer of colour gets on top of it, for example a glaze or a wash, it is fixed.

What I really enjoy about the Modelmates products are their own guides on their page. Really check those to see in how many different ways you can apply the rust effect.

Ok, I am still convinced, but what about a more useful test.
Instead of white paper I show you now how it looks applied to some figures:

Used on one of my quick gaming bases ...

(dieVincis) base during the Blumberg-Achdorf class, still WIP ...

basework during the same class ...
he did a combination with the rust effects
and pigments and shows that you still can work on the 
surfaces with edge highlights.

Raffa used it on the metal buckle
of his latest supercool Lichy Priest sculpt:

Peter used the Normal Effect very gently punctually on his "Dead King's" armour and weaponry.

I used the Normal Effect during my work on "the First One",
the cool robot kit from Heroes&Villians to gain some experience with it. 
Work in Progress, a step by step of the project is in preparation:

Final result ...

Here is another example from Sebastian, a base that he did recently on the last painting class in Forchheim, which was held last weekend. He used all three rust effects on it and the Verdigris effect:

Some months ago I already had one big, mad test running.
This was the time when I first encountered ModelMates's rust. I took a cool tank from Heer 46 and created a little tank wreck. I applied an acrylic-colour-airbrush-basecoat to it, threw tons of the rust effect on it, used thicker and thinner layers. I used water here and there to achive a less opaque surface and test different textures. Sprayed acrylic colours in between again and did it all over again ... this sounds mad and it was, but I had so much fun. It is not finished yet but I really got a feeling for working with the rust effect (this was only  normal effect):

There will be more examples for sure in the future :)

Closing words
This all sounds like a big praise and well it is, but I want to give you my personal thoughts on it too. I really enjoy the rust product of ModelMates as it offers a lot of variety in the way you use it. What I also love is that it saves time. I think there is still a lot to test by using it for more projects, see it combined with already known techniques. I think this is just the tip of the iceberg on how you can use that product.

Well, that is so far all I can say about that rust and I guess that wall of text is enough already for many of you. If you made it this far, I say thank you and give you a little preview on the "Verdigris products" we are testing in the same manner soon on one of Forged Monkey's upcoming releases:

So far keep on happy weathering!
Best Wishes

Blog Update

by Roman aka jar

Hey painters,

a little information about recent changes on the Massive Voodoo blog:

You now find a register of topics in the introduction of the article section that allows quick jumps via links to the subsectors. We hope the smoother navigation helps you find what you are searching for in the jungle of 229 articles without killing your mouse wheel. This is not the last solution we plan for the article section, but for the moment it is a start :)

Update in the Roadmap section: A FAQ about how to organise a painting class with us was added (english and german version), plus upcoming class plans were added.

Your MV-Crew

Tutorial: Building up a Wasteland Display base

by Roman aka jar

Good Morning jungle people,

again, Tutorial Voting was held and you decided once again against the pirate's fate.

Massive Voodoo's year of the painter brings you the build up of a "Wasteland-Base" with this article. I hope you enjoy and have a good read. Let me know your thoughts, ideas, questions and impressions in the comments.

This is where we are heading in the article ...

Well, first when building up a base you need a plan. Not a perfect, exact plan, but one that tells you your "theme of the base". For me this time it was "Wasteland", ... it does not matter if it is after the Zombie-Apocalypse or after the scenario of Nuclear blast that rained down on humanity. What I wanted to show is a harsh world, a grim place, a place where survivors struggle to stay alive. A scenario that shows death can be permanent and known structures are just a far memory.

You will find this article seperated in "Composition thoughts" and "Material". Seperated so you can see exactly what I am trying to tell in this part of the article. Hope you enjoy!

Composition thoughts
I took a wooden plinth and decided to have some basic three levels on that base. A difference in height. So I took my saw and worked to cut out a stair in the front part of the base. After some minutes using the saw I decided to switch to the forceps and break off the part I just started to saw as I was to lazy to work my way through the wood with the saw. I was happy with that "luck shot" that occoured, and placed the piece of wood that was left on the base too.

I already enjoyed how this turned out. Why you might ask? Well, you need a theme for a base and a miniature. The Miniature I plan for this base is GW's Col. Straken, here you can see a cool version from Julien Casses. If you look on the figure's pose you can easily spot that his ambition is to run forward and fight someone or something. If you look on that base from above I am able to give his dynamic pose more fortitude as the basic parts already show a very nice window for the figure's position:

The base is opening up to the frontside of the figure's movement directio. It gives a frame, a focus to it. This settled it was time to start the build up of the "wasteland". If you are interest in more information about basing composition thoughts, check back with this article.

Again I used wall plaster for the white stone sheets, Juweela bricks for the ruined wall parts, some hobby corrugated metal, a skull (permanent death-danger-message), used some plastic pipes and steel girders. And of course my favourite tool to build up bases: Superglue! The plastic steel girders have been set to fire with a lighter - carefully of course - and have been bent while still flexible.

Composition thoughts
At this stage I checked back with the focus aspect of my base. Changing the angle of my view on the base. As you can spot now the direction of the pipes and the girders give the initial frame of the base a second one, build up with material:

Well, it was time to build up some more of that "wasteland".
Recently I found cool chairs for the scale of 28 mm, added some real metal, rusty parts I found on the street and applied metal foil to some of the pipes to make them look more interesting and real. I applied one of PK-Pro's nice edged signs and chose "MOTEL" here as I felt it will fit well to the chair. This once has been a simple motel but everything got ruined.

Have a seat!
 Metal parts and chair applied ...
Motel and metal foil applied ...
 More metal foil ...

The metal foil is pretty cool as you can bent it easily over any surface. Check Raffa's Giu's Robot repair article and see more of the use of it. I used some pack-twine to pull some of it around one of the girders. It is planned to be some rusty wire later on. I can not exactly tell you why, but I love such small details and I just keep rolling with this base and don't want to stop in the middle of work.

Thinking about realism helps to add a little detail and I took some screws from PlusModel to the holes I drilled into the "MOTEL" sign. The lower one still inside, the upper one close to fall off ...

First, lets have a look on that base now. Well, that is it. I still will apply some soil and rubbish on it, but I am tired of telling and showing you that I threw some soil on a base. It is not difficult at all. Its purpose will be blending all parts together and closing this build up. Check this article to get into it!

Composition thoughts
If you did read the introduction about basing composition with care you will see what I am doing right now: Doing the cutaway and checking for the main spot where the figure will be placed, looking inside the face of the figure to see the front side of the base.

The base in this article is still without soil, without paint, without figure, but I as I took the base to the latest painting class to start painting it there as demonstration you can be sure to soon see some photos of its progress in the jungle soon and some explanations and experiments on rust too ;)

Why do I not show it in here?
Well, I don't want to mix up too many topics, avoid to mess up your brains and soil is really easy to apply (Honestly, I just did forget to make a photo of it).

I hope you enjoyed the article,
keep on happy basing and painting!
Best Wishes