Step by Step: Cold Vikings

by Massive Voodoo

Heyho Voodoo People,

this week's tutorial voting saw a really close contest between two cool (and blue) articles.
Even starting with 15 votes plus Azog was not in the lead finally. Azog recieved an overall score of 20 votes, while cold Vikings recieved 22. That's close, but also decided. The winner is:



Massive Voodoo's year of the painter 2 is proud to present you another article to be added to the
one of the biggest miniature painting free tutorial libraries in the web.
This article will be #317.
Crazy, but time to go full viking now!
 
If you want to keep track with an overview on what has happened so far 
please check this link!

Roman is now taking over the article. We hope you enjoy!
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You want to support us?
If you like to support or say thanks the monkeys of Massive Voodoo in what they do, please feel invited to drop a jungle donation in their direction via paypal or check their miniatures they got on sale here.
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Allright,
before this really starts I get myself another cup of coffee and spent a moment in silent thoughts about this article. I was looking forward to write this one for you MV readers and Miniature painters outthere since a while. Now the time has come and I nead a sharp mind to transport to you what I got planned as cargo in this one. Before further blabla, coffee :)

FOREWORD
Here we go again... starting a  paintjob is always about decisions. You have to decided which colors you use for the different areas of the miniature. Which brand of colors, which saturation and much more. Recently I recieve a lot of questions about my color recipes for different materials and I am frankly here when I say I got none. None specific, I decide from my atmospheric vision I got for the model:

- Where is the miniature/bust/character? 
At the beach, in the forest, desert temple, jungle, troll cave etc.

- What time is it?
Is it night- or daytime? Which light color influances my atmosphere?

In fact these thoughts result from my recent way of painting freely without making me headaches while I plan my project. I paint freely with this, wild and free. It is also a topic I explain in detail in my MV's Jar's Advanced Class and in many private coachings to come. I will try to give you an insight and a glimpse into the topic by explaining it on two Viking models I painted up some weeks ago in kind of the same atmospheric setting.

This is not a true step by step showing you each step I have done. It is more an insight into my thoughts while working these models into a cold atmosphere. Step by step kind of, but still with enough big steps to keep you thinking, not repeating blindly. I want to excuse myself for a mix in the photo quality of this article. Some were done with my mobile, others with my digital camera and even some with the big camera, but I am pretty sure you get the point of this article.

PREPARATIONS
"Rolf" by Castle Miniatures in 75mm and a small tiny bust by Nocturna called the "Viking Raider". Both on a plinth by Dino Pivato, prepped with masking tape to keep these beauties from color harm. The resin bust preps and pinning to the plinth went quite easy while some areas on Rolf had to be taken care of with the use of Milliput.

Additionally I prepared Rolf's helmet on a toothpick, stuck to a cork and did the same to his shield, as these pieces needed to be placed later on.

PAINTING
I told you about decisions. I decided to have both figures in a cold atmosphere so I started quite simple with that. If you take a look on the cold/warm color theory article in MV article section it might give you additional information on the topic. My easy start after priming both models with black primer was spraying them blue to setup my atmosphere:


Now comes the important part to keep it cold. It is time to apply other basecolors to the models for example leather, metallics, skintone, etc. What I did to keep it all in the same atmosphere was adding a tiny drop of the same overall blue into each basecolor.


Applying basecolors is always a very important step, but also exhausting and boring. Stay focused on it and prepare your basecolors well as an opaque surface you can work further on top. If it's an unclean surface with not being opaque it might lead your furthermore paintwork to look strange if unclean areas in your basecoat shine through. Well, you can also use this to your advantage when it comes to very textured or structured areas.

I did not paint both models at once. No one can do such. I started to paint on Rolf and switched over the Raider here and there. I try to do the same in the explanations.

Rolf. Like I told you I mixed in my blue basecolor in everything else. My browns, my metallic tones, my skintones. Everything recieved a small drop of blue to it and so everything fits fine in the atmosphere I aiming for. I paint highlights and shadows to the areas or stibble a texture where I want one. I do quite the rough work here as I call it sketching my idea, the concept of light and shadow and my color choices for different areas:


Same thing happend on the bust, but much slower and with a slightly different warmer basic skintone.

I did not use pure white for the eyes of the bust, it was a little off-white with a drop of red, green to it, but also a tiny drop of blue from my atmosphere color.
 

I went a little further in my sketch. Painted the eyes, glazes for skin color variations, first shadows and highlights and rough texture. Also added the base color for the blond hair, but well - again - blue to the mix. Makes them look green, weird for the moment, but well in the end one atmosphere.


After this step is done I start to intensify the different materials a little more. Bring back their original color you can say. Different brown glazes and washes on the leather, reds on the skin, a black controlled wash on the chainmail, a highlight here and there, a stronger shadow here and there and a little more texture over there.

This will change the overall atmosphere look once more, but no need to be confused, just stay focused, it still works well togehter. The sketch grows.



Overall look still good, even different colors appear, all cold. Keep it cool!
 While I was working my way through more and more details of Rolf I also came upon the shield. I decided for a yellow/black shield, but again if I would place a strong, powerful yellow here it will stand out of my atmosphere way too much. I have to add blue to the mix again, even for its base color. Same to the black by the way.


I added snow to Rolf, just a little bit and with it I wanted to bring back some more of my atmosphere to pull it all together even more. I took the airbrush once more, mixed in a thin glaze of blue and sprayed this to the overall model, but before I did I used masking putty to cover areas I did not want to have more blue. I wanted these areas a little more intense in their tonality.


Pffftt! Pfffft! With this step also some of my highlights and shadows turn blueish once again. Subtile. Everywhere, except where I placed the masking putty. Tricky, eh?

I kind of did the same steps to the Viking Raider bust. What I also did on the metallics and wasn't able to explain properly on Rolf's photos: While highlighting the metallics I used a bright silver with a blue touch. You can buy such from Scale75 or just take a silver and mix in a drop of blue to it.


You can see how I added textures to the metalls by stippling and thin lines, crossed ones or just single ones. As metallics in nature are a material that reflects its sorroundings pretty strong I aimed for blueish highlights in the metals and some brown midtones to brownish dark black shadows. I did this with applying strong tone (makes it matte again, so additionally recieve a contrast in my metals between matte and shiny), followed by strong tone plus a drop of black for the deepest shadows.



Compared to the photo above you can see how I also started with cold highlights in the hair basic color to keep really everything stick together. 

When I decided the bust was done with main work I removed the tape from the plinth. I love this moment when the beauty of the plinth comes together with the one of the paintjob. In the back you can spot another paintjob, which was done in not a cold atmosphere setup, but in a ... guess what?


AFTERMATH
Both models - these two cold vikings - were a lot of joy to paint. The structure of my atmospheric work schedule keeps me kind of free from recipes. I add what needs to be added to stick to a specific atmosphere. On both models I might have done some small edge highlights here and there and some color variations here and there to make it more interesting, before I called them done.


If you want to see more photos of Rolf, that I called "Erik Reimundson", please follow the link to Putty&Paint.



If you want to see more photos of the Viking Raider bust, please follow the link to Putty&Paint.

I hope you enjoyed the insight into my progress on these two. I hope my thoughts are understandable. Give it a try, do not fear. Keep on happy painting!

Roman

 _______________________________________________________________________________
You want to support us?
If you like to support or say thanks the monkeys of Massive Voodoo in what they do, please feel invited to drop a jungle donation in their direction via paypal or check their miniatures they got on sale here. The Viking Raider bust is on sale there two! Make it yours!
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Mountain Ogre and Miniatures on Sale

by Massive Voodoo

Hey Jungle,

Peter has recently finished some minis. Today he will show us his version of Roman´s Ogre and tell us a bit about it:

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At the moment I enjoy painting so much. 
Roman´s Advanced Class has given me some very important energies back. The Ogre bust was my first bigger paintjob after finishing the workshop miniature Hayden and it has been a very enlightening experience.

Beside learning how to deal with atmosphere and how to apply it on a project, the class has somehow opened my mind. In the last years I was a bit struck in my way of painting. Perhaps some of you might remember my big project Theseus´ Destiny, which I finished for Duke of Bavaria 2014. After I entered it into the contest and won my silver medal, I felt like I had to achieve at least the same quality on every new paintjob I started. Well, we all know that these attempts are always about to fail as there are so many things that have an influence on your work. Daily troubles, lack of motivation, wrong colors... no matter what it is, you are not always in balance and this affects your skills, positive and negative.

Nevertheless I knew these facts, I tried to push myself to the maximum. However this does not help very much, it rather results in frustration and so your work will never be "satisfying". But happily attitudes can change. During the Advanced Class I learnt that you can fix anything that "has gone wrong". There is nothing in painting that could be called "wrong". It´s just a temporary state and you just have to identify the things that bother you about your project. If you have, just simply fix them and learn while doing it. You have all the tools at hand (brushes & paint). Don´t give up. If you need a break, take it and put your project back into the cabinet for as long as it takes until you want to continue working on it. But never give up! If you feel like there is nothing else to do, call it finished and enjoy the moment.

So, the Ogre had his difficulties, too. It´s a beautiful bust with lovely volumes, which are a pleasure to paint. But its complexity lies in its large areas of skin. These were challenging, but we are not here to take the same roads over and over again. They get boring. With new ways and new challenges comes the joy of painting and if you know that you can´t do anything wrong, there is nothing to fear. So, I took the challenge and enjoyed the paintjob a lot. I hope you like it :)



Mountain Ogre
sculpt by Roman Lappat, 1:11



You can find additional pictures here: Putty&Paint
The bust is for Sale!


There is something I want to annouce: as my cabinet it getting crowded, I want to sell some of my older projects. I hope they will find a nice new home and somebody who enjoy them as much as I do :)

If you are interested in buying one of the following, feel free to contact me: baphomet[at]massivevoodoo[dot]com


Theseus´ Destiny
Figures by Figone, 85mm & Zvezda, 1:72
On display base

Forged Monkey, 90mm
Bust
 








The Rising
Figures by Mantic Games, 28mm
On display base

Metal Models, 54mm
On display base









Figure by Castle Miniatures, 120 mm
Bust

Figure by Pegaso, 90 mm
Bust


Figure by Pegaso, 54 mm
On display base






Cheers,
Peter

Katari - Shaman Woman of the Izla Tribe

by Massive Voodoo

Hey Jungle,

another finished project from Roman's table.
This beautiful bust by Black Crow Miniatures was sculpted by the talented
Romain van den Bogeart. Roman was inpsired by playing the computer game "Far Cry - Primal" a while back and we think that it is a good thing that he gets so inspired by such games.

The bust, originally named "Morrigan" was started by Roman during a two day MV private coaching session with Evgeny and Roman. Roman finished her some days after the coaching. We hope you like her! Future step by step in progress :)

Katari - Shaman Woman of the Izla Tribe
Black Crow Miniatures, 1:9






You also find her on Putty&Paint
with some additional photos.

The bust is for sale and if you want to support the jungle and get something unique in return check the painted Miniature Art that the monkeys on MV have for sale:

Tutorial Voting: Cold Viking Orcs

by Massive Voodoo

Hey Jungle Painters,



Tuesday again and time for tutorial voting via MV's year of the painter 2.
This week's voting result will be revealed on Friday.

Houston, we had a problem...
A monkey in space messed up the last tutorial voting without making sure everything was set up properly to launch the tutorial space shuttle. The step by step of Azog wasn't finished yet and Roman still was on travel to his beginner's class in Denmark.

So, while "Azog, the white Orc" won the last tutorial voting, we had to delay the Azog tutorial by a week until Roman returned and we did delay it even further as Roman was taking two weeks off. Now should be the time for "Azog", but somehow it does not feel right, just writing an article when so many more are in the pipeline.

To get things right for Houston we do it like this:
Regular Tutorial Voting for this week but Azog starts with 15 votes plus. Let's see if he will make it.

If you want to keep track with an overview on what has happened so far iN MV's year of the painter 2
please check this link!
_______________________________________________________________________________
You want to support Massive Voodoo? 
If you like to support or say thanks the monkeys of Massive Voodoo in what they do, please feel invited to drop a jungle donation in their direction via paypal or check their miniatures they got on sale here.
_______________________________________________________________________________

#01
SBS - Cold Vikings
A step by step by Roman. Voting for this step by step will take you into Viking country. Two models under Roman's brush. One bust, one 75 mm figure, both being placed in cold atmosphere. Read Roman's thoughts on both paintjobs and about their progress in this tutorial.


#02 ---> with 15 votes plus from the start!
SBS - Azog the White Orc
A step by step by Roman. With it you are entering his mind through the process of a very big bust he recently did: Azog. A brutal paintjob delivered to the bust. Finish version can be seen here! Expect a brutal step by step.


Happy Voting!

Mu81 - Broken Toad, MK2 Brush Set

by Massive Voodoo



Aloa Jungle Maniacs, 
today it is time for another material review on MV. 

This is review #81, if you are interested in getting to know more products we regularly use, check the overview on the Miniatures/Material Unpacked, in short MU.

In Mu54 we took a closer look on some fresh new brushes by Broken Toad. Kolinsky Sables. They were actually quite decent, but Kris from BrokenToad decided to improve them even more. Of course he asked the jungle to have a proper look on them. Roman is taking over with the review now - we hope you enjoy!

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First, 
we are reviewing the Miniature Series MK2 Brush Set, which is at 24 GBP + shipping for four high quality brushes, which is actually quite the good deal. 

"This brush set contains four brushes, sizes 2,1,0 & 3/0, one of each of the sizes available in the BrokenToad Miniature Series MK2 range, all presented in a contemporary styled gift box."

The set arrives in a really nice box:

The brushes inside are well packed ...

There is even a small piece of paper which reminds you on caring for your brushes and how to - nice addition:

The tip of the brushes.
No need for saying to much here as a good brush can only be find while painting.

Well, 
I gave two of the brushes to my painting voodoo buddy Peter for testing. I do the other two. This was about 2,5 months ago. Since then we painted with them. Testing them for different purposes.

Peter: 
"Roman gave me two of the Brokentoad (BT) brushes (sizes, 0 & 1) for testing and to get another opinion for this review. I usually only use the Windsor&Newton (W&N) brushes, but the ones from BT are an useful addition to my armory of painting tools. In contrast to W&N, I got the feeling that BT brushes have a bit stronger/stiffer hairs. They don´t bend/"flow" so easily like the W&N brushes, when it comes to painting. Even if this is needs some time to get used to at the beginning, I don´t want to miss this effect, now. I use the BT brushes if I need clean, straight lines (e.g. for freehands) or if I want to paint small textures (e.g. for clothes). Combined with their quite good durability and if they match your style of  painitng, they are a very good alternative to W&N."


I painted the two of mine hardcore without showing them much love. This is my bad habbit, I do not take too much care of my brushes. They are tools. I sometimes clean them, should do more often. Anyhow, for checking on the new brushes this is a good way of testing :)


What can I say:
The first Broken Toad Brushes were good, these are better. Kris achieved his goal. They have a great tip and have a nice stiff touch you can work with really well. The hair feels being higher quality then the first ones and they do their job as a tool pretty well. Glazing, Layering, pushing, pulling, fine lines, fine dots ... easy going with the brushes by Broken Toad.

I can definatly recommend them, they are a good addition to my collection of brushes. As the set is coming in some kind of gift box they are also a good present for every miniature painter you know and call friend. Think about their birthday!

Even after some months of using them hardcore they still have a good tip and stiff hair. Now I just need to get myself a brush soap by Broken Toad.

Keep on happy painting!
Best Wishes
Roman

Viking Raider

by Massive Voodoo

Good Morning Jungle,

as this week is quiet considering tutorial votings or tutorials, we might have some more finished miniature for you, maybe even providing a future step by step to this one. Roman recently finished a small and cool bust he bought on the Duke of Bavaria 2016 at Frank Miniatures.

The bust is themed on a Viking Raider, is about 3-4 cm in height and is by the company Nocturna Models. Quite the joy to paint. We hope you like it too:

Viking Raider
Nocturna, 1:12








You also find him on Putty&Paint.

The bust is for sale and if you want to support the jungle and get something unique in return check the painted Miniature Art that the monkeys on MV have for sale: