Step by Step: Drakerys' Orc Shaman

by Massive Voodoo


another tutorial voting went by and the winner this time was "Orc".
Finally the curse which lay on this article is broken and it is to be revealed.
Time for greenskins!

The model itself is out of the succesful Kickstarter "Drakerys, the miniature game", run by the jungle friends "Don't panic games". Beautiful models they will bring and as we heard a great game system too.

Let's check for the article now and jump directly into Roman's brain ...


The Basework
Planning a simple but yet cool base for this guy I went for the groundwork with layers of Milliput that I stamped with - let me remember, ah yes, the back of my fingernail -  some thin cork, a skull by Origin-Art and some plastic cacti by Pegasus Hobbies on top of a wooden squared plinth.

Some tiny stone rubble was placed after the Millput was dry.

Sculpting the ear
Unfortanetly I had to resculpt an ear of the Orc as this was just missing on my cast. Check the Miniatures Unpacked of this model here. 

I used Milliput that was left from my basework and did so by creating the rough volume for the ear, placed it to the model and then used a toothpick to form it.

After the ear was dried I placed the model on top of its base and sanded the edges of the wooden plinth. If bases don't go too big I do enjoy working model and base at once to have a better overview on the whole "canvas" I am painting on. This is personal taste and like I said, sometimes - depending on your basework - it does not make sense at all.

The Paintwork
The model was primed black and I went on the search for a basing tone that I will spray with my airbrush. I did not want to go with the casual Orc green that many manufacturers suggest. I went for finding the mix on my own and wanted to use a cold green as basetone by mixing the following colours:

Sprayed with the airbrush it looked like this:

Quickly I realized that I wanted more highlights on top of that and mixed in some VMC Ice Yellow into the base mix, sprayed it on top of the model and took a drop of yellow to change this mix even more - sprayed that to the groundword where I have planned a desert area later on.

I liked that tone that much, also where it did hit the Orc's feet and carefully sprayed it to his mouth area too:

Now - like I often do in this stage of process - I painted my plinth black to give the whole scene a dark frame to focus my eyes:

Now I went for some browns and desaturated sand tones to give the leather parts and the bone parts their basis for later work.This also helps me to get a better visual grip of the model itself.

Next step was using some yellowish sand tones to the base, work on some highlights on the leather, bones and hair. Metal parts and hair have been painted black. The hair recieved a line of blueish grey in it to later on present a coloured part of the hair. The same blue but with less grey in it was used for the perl necklace and some fabric parts on his belt. Repeating such colours help to bring the model together.

Now for intensifying the colours. I took some yellowish glazes to make that sand tone stronger and mixed in some VMC Ice Yellow to paint some stronger highlights to the base. Green glazes were used to make the skintone more intense.

Now it was time to start with detail work. Now all the small details, like Edge highlights on every material were worked on.They eyes recieved some red. Bone parts recieved some brighter highlights and with the same colour the small fixation stripes on his right arm pad were painted. The cacti recieved some layers of stronger and more saturated green. Brownish pigments have been placed on the base and metal parts have been painted in GW's old Dwarf Bronze and Scale75's Black Metal as basetones. Army Painters' Strong Tone was used to darken the bone, leather and  skirt parts.

Now I went for increasing the contrast even more. Greens have been highlighted with mixing a small drop of Ivory into the last mix. Did the same with the hair- and bonecolour. In the other direction I went with further glazes of Army Painters' Strong Tone. For the skin's shadow I used thin glazes of my initial basic tone first to find my way in the shadows, slowly increasing the contrast with these shadow glazes by adding a tiny drop of black to it.

The base recieved some dark orange brown glazes to the front stone areas, but only to its side, not on top to bring in a more interesting colour varation of the desert area.

The face got some more attention and I tried to paint all the small volumes that make the face. I used some pink skintone glazes for the lips, nose and ears and also some yellow + green to get a better connection from the lip to the face skintone.

I added some more water thinned pigment glazes to his feet to make the pigments not covering the whole feet, but let them gently run between his toes.

Now it was time to take a look from further away on what I have worked on so far. I was happy so far, but not done yet. For a quicker project I'd say fine, but I wanted to get out a little more of that Orc.

For pushing the model further in quality I went for the following steps:

- Increasing the contrast in the green skin by work on smaller areas on top of the so far done small areas. This step helps to bring out each volume and its light situation. It takes time but it is rewarding.
Tip: If you think your highlight went too strong. glaze it with a bright green tone to bring it all together again. Now you can carefully work on the lights again. Wax on, wax off!

- Working on the colour intensity of the facial area. I enjoyed those skintones and yellow tones in the mouth area and increased their intensity.
Tip: Same here, due colourful glazes you might lose the intensity of your highlights. Redo them but this time do them in the colour that has appeared at this particular point. For exampe in the mouth I added VMC Ivory to a mix from green, humanskintoe and purple to find the natural looking highlight colour there.

- Checked back with my shadow areas. If you find a shadow not dark enough, do not hesitate to still put some time in it.
Tip: Only work in your shadow areas, not in your basetone or highlight areas, you might destroy all you have done so far by mistake.

- Worked on edge higlights in the metal parts and added some rust and verdigris by Modelmates to it.
Tip: If your metal parts are really tiny, like on this model you can keep them simple as too much work on them is another part that might distract the eye from the really important areas of a model.


Hope you enjoyed the article!
Keep on happy painting!
Best Wishes

Forged Hope - Entries - Round 1

by Massive Voodoo

Ladies and Gentleman,

as the Forged Hope Program is over, we can start showing the great entries that we received.

We won't show them all in one blog post, as there are way to many stories and pictures to give every entry the attention it deserves!

We will post the entries by the order in which we received them starting with:

by Florian "Tuffskull" Weinheimer
One day a rider came to the forgefather. He felt from his horse holding a letter in his hands. He was looking strange: strange eyes, dark skin, black hair. The forgefather opened the letter and read: “dear forgefather. We are the people from a country formerly known as Nihon before the atomic apocalypse. Due to the radioactive fallout most of our animals died but some mutated. Some weeks ago a beast was coming from the sea and attacked the ruins of our old capital Tokyo. We called it Jarzilla. Please forgefather build a robot to defend us.”

Shortly after that the forgefather was on his way using his newest speedbot. After a journey of almost three days he finally arrived. The people already collected all they could find and thought it could be of use for the old mechanic. So he started to build… and build… and build. When he finally was done the people came to take a look at their new defender. The robot was huge – almost 20 meters. The forgefather called it RK-78-2. The one of the visitors felt to his knees screaming happily: “Oh my god – it’s the Gundam!” That was the day when Jarzilla went back to the sea.

XM3 - Glitchbot
by Daniel Owen
Typically, the XM3 is a defensive robot used to guard cargo and other vital material in the settlement but "Glitchbot" suffered almost catastrophic damage during an electrical storm which destroyed one arm and made him a little glitchy...until his owner replaced his arm with a harpoon claw and set him a new purpose, he still protects, but he seeks out any vermin that may attempt to consume the settlements food.

The Fishomat F-1
by Jens Didgman
After the Forge Father designed and built the First One he was thinking about what his community needs.
The lack of proteins has always been a problem, since most animals were killed by the nocturnal attacks of monsters.
A reasonable and efficient option are the existing fish stocks in the remaining rivers and small lakes.

For this reason he designed the F-1, the Fishomat.
He used, as before with the First One, a DNHH (do not harm humans) module.
This module was originally intended as a protection to avoid assaults by robots agains humans.
He programmed the DNHH, so that the F-1 does not harm the fish unnecessarily and transport them as vividly as possible in the conclave.
He also programmed a MM & WSO, the name of the algorhythm for movement minimizer & water surface observator.
However, there is the problem that the main processor, a rudimentary KI that can learn and adapt, influenced all the implemented modules.
In this case, the DNHH and the MM & WSO.

Due to this influence, certain traits develop.
As manifested in the F-1 is a dreaminess with growing interest for its lively environment.
But it will take months, where the F-1 comes back with less and less fish to the conclave and the Forge Father realizes that the F-1 developed into a kind of active animal rights activists.
But this won't make the F-1 useless, as the Forge Father converted him as a biological observation unit.

by Leonard Kraus
V4n-H is designed as a guard and hunt robot. Especially designed to hunt for beasts in the ruins.
For this he was equipped with a heavy repeating crossbow.


by Serafin
This is my Farm Bot. In times when food is rare it´s not an good idea to have human farmers, who want to eat more of the plants than they are allowed to -or give it to their families or those who paid for. So the solution is a neutral farmer - and who is more neutral than a bot that needs no food? Right nobody. So here is the keeper of the postapocalyptical glashouse (I think they need glashouses because of the toxic rain).

The Farm Bot does his work day after day - and nothing special happens. There are no humans allowed in the glashouses and so he works alone. But he love to see his plants grow and talk to them - cause there is nobody to talk to. But then comes the day everything changed. Somehow a little lizard found a way into his loneliness. The Farmbot never have seen a creature like this and all he knows about living creatures is, that they need food (thats the reason why the humans builded him) and so he grabs a corncob an offers the lizard some kernels and he realizes that he is not alone anymore.

Those are all entries of the first round, stay tuned for the second round of entries!
We are really amazed by all the ideas and cool projects, what do you think?

Cheers and have a great start in the week! 

Mu 56 - Amut & Gon by Arnaud Stranger

by Massive Voodoo

Hello Jungle Painters, 
again another Miniatures Unpacked for you outthere.

This time we want to show you two miniatures, a cute sculpt and a fearsome bust, sculpted by
Arnaud "Stranger" Bellier.

Let's start with the cute little fella, called "Gon" who is a small T-Rex or Baby-Godzilla.  
Arnaud sculpted the model in Fimo and refers to a Manga Character. His height is 23 mm and he truely is a cute little fella.

Gon arrives in three parts: Body and two small arms, which can easily be put in place. All parts are attached on a resin casting bar and can be cut off it easily.

As you can see on the following photo there are some small resin rests on the model, but it is not a big thing to clean them off the model. Some small fibres, luckily we did not find horrible mould lines on the figure, as they would be a pain in the ass to remove on those many scales.

The detail on this funny sculpt is really lovely, just look at all those teeth. Looks dangerous but in the end it is still cute. I can hear him roar.

For 23 mm in height it is really a cool sculpt. Volumes on it are all done in a cute way to keep him very funny. The sculpting work on the scales is pretty goog too. Now for the imagination, for a little Godzilla I would take his arms as they arrive, but for creating a baby T-Rex I'd cut them half way and make him running around with two T-Rex-useless arms.

Arnaud sculpted Amut for the competition of sculpture 2013, organized by and Phoenix Effect. The height of the bust is 110 mm and the crocodile face is full of character.

The model is a big block of resin, consisting of different sculpted parts, like head, body, chain around his neck, fur on the back and some cool looking undescribable magical fog in the lowest part. Each of these parts look pretty cool, but somehow we don't get the feeling that they belong together as one. We are not sure if the body is really needed to present this cool head. The chain is a cool detail and takes this character strictly related to ancient egypt.

The most amazing part of the bust is - from our point of view - is definatly the crocodile head. Such cool sculpting work here and this is definatly fun to paint.

Again, not much preparation work is needed when it comes to cleaning the bust. No serious mould lines have been spotted and all different areas arrive in good detail quality.

Arnaud really got a thing going on with sculpting scales. If you like what you see you can head over to facebook and ask "Arnaud Stranger" for a cast to paint one of these up. Cool stuff!

Miniatures Unpacked out!

Forged Hope Contest is over!!

by Massive Voodoo

Ladies and Gentleman,

the Forged Hope Program is over now!
We want to thank everybody who spread the word about this contest and everybody who helped the Forge Father raise some great robots to help humanity!

Fourty (40!) awesome, creative entries have been recieved until the deadline yesterday.
Two of them out of competition as both have not been finished, but they still deserve to be shown in the jungle. Thirty-eight in the competition.

Now what is going to happen next?
We are sorting all your great entries and all the stories that came with them and will post them up in groups of five to the blog in the next two weeks, so every entry will get the attention he deserves. In the end there will be a big gallery of all the entries on Massive Voodoo's facebook page.

When every entry got introduced on Massive Voodoo, the judging work begins. And this will be a hard task, you can believe that.

During the two weeks of showing you the entries of those cool robots
we'll add additional information to the posts to do the lottery of the random prize pool.

Read you soon with more on this topic!

Mu 55 - Modelmates, Brick Joint Filler

by Massive Voodoo

Yet time again for another look on some new hobby material via MV's Miniature Unpacked, but this time it is a mixture of unpacking, testing and some kind of tutorial.

You might know that MV is well known to have a look on very interesting products outthere. Combined with our everyday painting of an average of eight hours since several years, we can also provide a good look on new material with practical experience.

This said, we want to dig a little deeper into products of a company with you we really enjoy lately. Their products are mainly aimed for the hobby of Scale Models, at least this is what their page communicates, but we are sure this will change a lot in the future as their products are also great for our hobby of miniature painting. Let me introduce to you 

Roman did get in contact with one of their products when Battlefield-Berlin sent him one bottle of "Normal Rust" and he got convinced by the result he recieved by using it. Modelmates has no shop on its own and is selling via different dealers in different countries. You can find a list of their retailers here! We are even updated that besides Battlefield-Berlin now also PK-Pro has Modelmates in stock!

We are happy to announce that Modelmates is now official sponsor of MV Painting Classes and participants on our classes can find out why we like their products that much on their own, testing and experiencing them during the classes. In the following review we will take a look on their
Brick Joint Filler.

In your massive jungle you can already find a review on their primers, Rust Effects, Verdigris Effects 
and Weathering Sprays.There will be more later on as their list of products is much bigger and MV is in the middle of experiments with them and is recieving very, very cool results.

"Please know that this is just my own experience with these products. I tell you honestly what I do like and don't. I can not assure you that you will make the same experience as you might have a different taste or different requirements than I have."


This review I will have a look on two of Modelmates' Brick Joint Filler. Before we start in some testing we will have a look on what their homepage says about those sprays:

"Opaque brick joint filler liquid creates realistic brick and stones joint. Water soluble: brush straight from pot over the full surface of the wall, filling the brick or stone joints, let fully dry, then wipe off the dry residue using a damp cotton bud leaving Brick Joint Filler trapped in the joints. Available in two sizes, 18ml and 50ml."

Let's head over to a base Raffa did build and check on the brick wall there how the Brick Joint Filler works. First build up a base how you like it, and paint it with your basic colour setup you wish for it. We recommand painting it up to 70%~80% to finish before you apply the Brick Joint Filler.

When testing something it is always got to get to know the product before you maybe mess up your paintwork. This being said, we took a metal cup and placed the liquid inside to have a look on it. Well it does not look like the typicall brick filler in this stage, rather like something else, but whatsoever, here we go:

Placing it to the brickwall with a brush of your choice is looks like this when dried:

Looks pretty rough here and there, but it dries out matte and white like we wished for. This is good, but what is even better is that you now can take a clean wet brush (not too wet) and carefully remove areas that look to rough. Clean up the surfaces of the bricks that are too packed with white now:

This is really cool, as it also leaves a natural look behind on some stones, where the white still appears. One thing Raffa did was mentioning that the white is too powerful and has a lot of disturbing effect on the overall look of the base due the power of the whites. He used a watered wash from Army Painters Strong Tone to spray it gently with the airbrush to calm that white down a bit, really gentle and subtile effect:

It is always very good to check back with reality if you work on your brickwall. What is happening there, what inspiration and inspiration can you get out of it when you take a closer look. Reality is the mother of all inspiration for us miniature painters. At least it should be.

Some Examples via tale-of-the-bananawhale,
, Roman's personal hobby blog with tons of inspirational material photos:

I am looking forward to use the brick filler more often and try new things with it.

Important: Modelmates offers a lot of information on how you can use the product on their homepage, just scroll down and read about more examples and how-to-articles, very cool, click here!


So far from the brick-wall-front, happy brick laying to you all!
Your MV-Team