Good Morning Jungle Painters,
it's about time to bring up your choice from last weeks tutorial voting. Most of you voted for a closer look on Scale75 Metal colours. The MV-Team are using the Scale75's for a while now and Raffa and Roman will now bring you some thoughts about these high praised colours.
This article is mainly about the Scale75 Metal and Alchemy Steel Set, but also takes a little look on the Inkensity Set in the end of the write up. You can also spot the Flesh Paint Set in some photos, but this will be a different article one day as more tests are to be done.
This article is a bit a Material Unpacked as far as you can unpack colours without a big mess and gives tutorial guides here and there. Article is written by Roman, but thoughts of Raffa and him are to be found in this article.
Enjoy!
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Okay, let's get it on with the article. I told you I'd explain the colours on the recent model I have painted from Terrible Kids Stuff and I will do, but later on. First things first and I think it is important to look at the colours first.
I had my first encounter with the Scale75 metal colours back on my painting class in Blumberg-Achdorf, but before I dig deeper in my first expression let's say that the jungle is doing mucho experiments with metal colours as you can see in Raffa's article:
Metallic Colour Comparision Chart
A collection of the results by different metal colour brands! Huge!
Unfortanetely the Scale75 colours were published a good while after this article, so you won't find them on that colour chart, but I think you get the point I'd like to explain: We are no noobies when it comes to metal colours.
Ok, back to Blumberg-class where I did put a drop of the Scale 75's Black Metal on my wetpalette for the first time to test them right in the class. If you do not want to feel like an idiot in front of a full class prepare a toothpick as these colours will be delivered sealed and you have to break them open with your tool of choice.
My first impression was: Well, I'd call it a colour orgasm. From the first look on I was in love with this metal tone, its high number of fine pigments and its brilliance.
Pfffrrddd!
Since then we are doing tests and use them more frequently in the jungle HQ as we really like these colours. The metal tones are great and really well chosen, as a painter who paints eight hours a day since years I can say that you really feel that these colours have been developed with great thoughts and painting wisdom by the choice of the tones you find in the set (sorry, forgot the purple Alchemy in the photo!!):
The basic metal tones from left Black Metal to Speed Metal work really well if you work your true metallic metals from dark to bright. The White Alchemy is great for some shiny dots or edge highlights while you can use the Alchemy metal tones to bring some colour play in your metals.
An introduction into the theme of painting with real metal colours.
... but there is one big problem all Scale75 colours have: Their mix. It does not matter if it is the metal set or the skin or leather set. Their mix provides the colours - beside the metals - with a really matte finish when painted. And often if you used them not daily these Scale75 colours change in their bottles. The pigments descent to the bottom of the bottle while their binder is staying up, often all colour by Scale75 look like this:
This colour is in no state to paint with it as it is not mixed properly. Now it is shaking time and I wished that Scale75 thought about this problem and would have added Agigator Metal balls to their bottles for example those by PK-Pro. There are non and so shaking becomes a hard task to get these colours ready.
Raffa went straight forward and used the drill machine with a bend wire piece for this task:
Open carefully ... sorry, for the blurry focus:
Dsccchhhhh!!!
Following you can see how a proper mixed Scale75 colour should look like (middle) compared to an umixed one (left):
Well, this is truely annoying, but unavoidable, if you want to use these colours right and with the power they got. We used some of the steel set and some of the gold set for example for the awards of the Forged Hope Program.
Well, ok. The matte dry some of the regular sets have is great as the colours really dry beautifully matte on your model and it is great to work on top of them. A quick jump away from the metals to show you another problem you might encounter with all paint sets by Scale75 (which also appears with the metal tones btw): They dry fast, even if you put them on your wetpalette. This comes from their mixture again. Something in it, that makes them so matte makes them fade away in about three hours on your palette and there is only dusty dry colour left:
This problem is solved easily: Paint them :)
And that is what we do right away. Let's have a look back on the metals. Black Metal is Roman's favourite colour, why? It is a great start for metals, dark and so fine pigmented that it leaves a great surfaces to work on top of it - have a look at this early WIP to see the effect Black Metal has on black prepared armour parts:
Now adding a little bit of Heavy Metal to it to get these first light situtation sketches up to the your basic metal tone:
Well, really cool for some minutes of work. Now let's head over to the "Vampire guy" from Terrible Kids Stuff. The base was build rather simple with the provided resin part and some wood parts I broke out of the plinth.
After this the model was primed grey with Vallejoy primer as there was no black one at hand - I prepared the head for painting on its own - why? You will see in the next step:
As that guy is full of armour I decided to spray some Heavy Metal on top of him with my airbrush. The Scale75 colours are thinned well with Scale75 thinner and so I did in my airbrush - everything silver now!!!!
Next was cleaning the airbrush properly and heading for black metal to spray shadows with it to the model - still looks like a silver trophy!
Next I decided to test the Inktensity black in my - again - cleaned airbrush. Make sure to really clean your gun well if you spray metal tones. And wow, first impression on the Inktensity Colours are: Damn, they are intense!! Have to take more care or thin them more...
I now went for some Vallejo Colours to bring in a little bit seperation in the project before I worked further. Fabric, base, skin and leather parts recieved their basic colours:
Now I went for the Inktensity again with the brush to give the metals interesting tones, really testing the Inks was my goal here and well, yeah they have power. If you want to achieve gentle effects with them use them thinned down with water properly. I did not in the initial start of my tests, but learned from it ...
I had to rework some of the metals again where the inks took too much focus, for example his leg armour:
Last steps included an overall general clean up, detail work and some blood splatters. It is definatly fun to work with the metal steel set and the Inketensity Set. Highly recommended if you avoid awkward painting moments by mixing them properly before use.
Let us know your experiences with the Scale75 colours?
Your thoughts on our explanations here?
Keep on happy painting!
Best Wishes
Roman and Raffa
I also noticed that the paints separate very easily, and don't have any little metal balls to act as agitators. Is there a way other than a drill that I can mix the colors?
ReplyDeleteAlso, how do the colors mix with other (non-metallic) colors, and how does the inktensity set compare to, for example, secret weapon washes?
Hi Roman,
ReplyDeleteSimple question here: Inktensity are satin finninsh?, (I can't find it on the internet). Are they similar to Andrea Inks?.
@Parable
ReplyDeleteIf you do not want to drill-mix them I only can recommand Agigator balls and hell lot of a shaking. I used the Steel Tones to mix them in my basic tone of the fish I painted at the Inuit and they mix really good with normal acrylic tones.
Well, the Inktensity is no wash at all. It is more a strong ink. Washes are often used to flow into the deep areas to create enough contrast for quicker paintjobs. These Inks do not have this characteristic. They are mainly produced to saturate your paintwork later on, my guess and experiences so far.
@Genaker
I'd say they finish definatly not glossy, rather satin but more with a matte look on them if sprayed with the airbrush. Done with the brush they look more satin, depending on the way of dillution with water. Less satin if they are thinned down more.
Sadly I can not tell you about the Andrea Inks, as I never used some so far :/
Thanks for the review. I'm a big fan of these paints but I really like to hear what pro painters think of the products that are available.
ReplyDeleteI appreciate the hard work you guys put into your articles and I would love to buy your dvd's or books if they are ever printed again. Even better, put them on Amazon!
@Carloz
ReplyDeleteMany thanks for your feedback and your kind wors. We are happy that you are happy with the information we provide here in your jungle. The books are not yet out of stock and are still available here: http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.de/2014/02/mv-figure-art-artbook-information.html
Thanks for this article! I have a box of Inktensity inks sitting unopened on my kitchen counter. I haven't really used inks before, so this should prove interesting! Wish me luck! Lol!
ReplyDeleteThanks
ReplyDeleteThanks
ReplyDeletefarklı vede güzel site.
ReplyDeleteHave you had any luck thinning these? Mine are thick enough out of the pot that they go on globby - but everything I've tried to thin them with has demolished them. I'd appreciate any ideas!
ReplyDelete@Nyx
ReplyDeleteI am usually not thinning my metallic paints. I paint them creamy or I lose control over my pigments in the water.
Hello guys! First of all I want to say BIG THANK YOU for your work. I have a question, is there any comparison style review, or photos between flat black 75 and andrea flat black or Ak Interactive?
ReplyDeletei purchased the scale75 dropper bottle paints and before applying to my miniature an Alpine 1/35 scale figure i tested the paints on a plastic cd case which i primed in Citadel's Corax white. The paint went on transparent and left huge brush strokes. I thought i was dong something wrong so i did a control test with my Vallejos, Citadels. and AK's and after two, three coats i achieved a solid base coat with no brush marks. It took me about a dozen coats of scale75 to get a half decent base coat and to somewhat mitigate the brush strokes. I thinned the paints with water, thinner, thinner medium, i heavily thinned also tried straight from the bottle. I added agitators and shook them forever and nothing helped. I emailed scale75 they told me i got a bad batch. i reside in canada and i ordered two different scale75 sets from two different stores from two different provinces, i hardly believe both stores had bad batches. I did some research and learned scale75 is just a crappy transparent paint meant to be airbrushed. Even my step-by-step paint guide for the sets i purchased said to use an airbrush for all the steps except the last for the tinniest go highlights.
ReplyDeleteI've had the same experience painting these over white primer, but they do very well over black primer.
DeleteThank you for your input. In the meantime I - can only speak for myself here - use mainly the metallic paints, inks and artist colors in tubes. I got quite annoyed by the mixing challenge the colors and the medium needed before using them (bottled ones) ...
ReplyDeleteThanks, yes, black primer works better with them!
ReplyDelete