This Painting Jam will be some kind of different.
I will not answer this time as I am horrible busy with way too much stuff - BUT I am asking the jungle readers for their help.
Can you help Ivo?
"Hi Roman
I'm visiting Massive Voodoo website very often because it containts a lot of great material, but I've ran into some difficulties while trying to learn how to paint with acrylics. I was eager to try glazing technique but after some time I still can't get the hang of it. I did what everybody told me. Thin down some paint (i tried different ration from 1:2 to 1:10 paint to water), load the brush, wipe it gently on a piece of paper towel a then onto a mini. The thing that occurs is I am not able to create soft transition. Infact any transition at all. All it does is it creates a spot where you can see highlight/shade tone with no transition and spots with basecoat color around it. In many tutorial is said that you end your brush stroke in place where you want the paint/pigment to gather and in place where you start you make the transition but that just doesn't happen. Could there be something i do wrong or anything?
Can I ask you for help?
Thank you
Sincerely
Ivo"
Now Ivo and I are looking forward to your ideas and thoughts ...
May the gods of rain bring a thunderous comment-storm ...
Maybe your problem is not in the acrilic.
ReplyDeleteIt's difficult for me to explain it in english but I'll try.
How do you move the brush over the figure?
Think that the brush leaves more colour when it finishes the contact with the miniature. You can play with that.
As an exercise try to write your name in paper with acrilics and a brush and appreciate where appears more paint and where appears less.
When you are doing a transition (from dark to light) and you are painting the light side, for example, you have to move the brush trying to deposite less paint in the darker side and more at the light side. How to do that?
It's easy, you have to move your brush from the dark side to the light side, not in the other direction.
Try it ;)
Maybe the problem is other but is interesting to try this first.
Cheers.
Good luck friend!
Where is he from? I think its easier to show him directly. . . .perhaps there is another painter in his area. . .
ReplyDeleteit creates dots of color? as if the paint doent spread? maybe its because waht are u basing with?
ReplyDeleteYou mentioned, you tried various dillution levels. Fine! Did you try different wetness levels on your brush ? After you wiped the brush on the paper, the brush should look clean to the eye. There's still a minimal dampness and pigments in it. When you say, you've got spots - reducing water in the papaer may help.
ReplyDeleteHi there. I'd try two things:
ReplyDelete1. Stick with strongly diluted paint. And, as Joe Cool said, try to keep the brush damp with the diluted paint, but not wet. That way, you will need a couple of strokes to actually see a difference (let them dry in between). Also try to start out layering a larger area and consecutively reduce the size of the layers of the diluted paint. E.g.: if you want to shade a fold, the first layer covers all the shaded area and some of where you want the mid-tone to be, the second layer covers a little bit less of the mid-tone area, but all the shades. The next is still a bit smaller, etc. In this, continue to move the brush to where you want the color to be strongest.
2. Try a different color brand. I have no idea what colors you're using, but I found that some of the lighter Vallejo Game Colors (the greys, especially) do not lend themselves well for glazing, and will leave dots or streaks; they do not blend well at all. I have had much better results with Vallejo Model Air and I heard that the new GW paints are also excellent for that. Of course, Inks and Washes are top notch for glazing! With them I found glazing much easier. Maybe start experimenting with those and return to actual "colors" when you're satisfied with the results you get with the inks/washes.
Hope that helps. Let us know how it worked out for you.
The trick is to mix 7-8 tones of a color. You want to have a different paint mixture for each of the mid-tones, shades, and highlights.
ReplyDeleteThe tutorial blending theory part 1 is very detailed about how to go about doing this.
If Ivo could post a picture, that would be helpful.
ReplyDeleteI'm wondering if the problem is that the color difference between the glaze and the basecoat is too great. Even when done perfectly, glazing won't produce a perfect transition—the edge of the glazed area will always be visible. So it's important that your glaze color be close to the base color, so this edge is not noticeable.
Well, I think the first step is to consider what glazing really is: it's about adding a delicate hue/tint to the underlying colour. It's not the same as shading.
ReplyDeleteFor instance - you might shade by thinning a purple wash and painting it into the recesses - the more thin layers, the smoother the transition. But you're only applying this to small areas.
Glazing is very different. You use it to help unify highlights with mid-tones - so, for instance, red space marine armour - highlighted up to pink. Then use a very, very thin layer of red to paint a coat over all of the armour: either diluted with mineral water, maybe with a glaze medium added, which improves consistency.
Very useful article: http://www.mainlymedieval.com/ozpainters/viewtopic.php?t=49
RichardJames-
ReplyDeleteWhat you describe as "the" use of glazing is only one possible use. Glazing really just means painting thin, translucent layers of paint which modify the underlying layer. As a technique, this has many possible applications. One can use glazes to shade (or highlight), by painting a glaze in selected areas where you want to create shadows.
If the translucent stuff doesn't work for you just try something else. There is more than one way to paint a miniature. Better figure out your own style instead of getting frustrated because you have problem with copying a specific technique. Otherwise you don't have much fun with your minis but the fun is all what it's about. For most people it is a hobby, not a science and it works pretty fine this way.
ReplyDeleteHi guys, I apologize but I was in Prague and I wasn't able to bring my laptop with me. Firstly thank you to all of you for your comments I truly appreciate it. I will give it another go today and will see how it goes. I just screwed the description of my issue it doesn't creates spots(or dots) of color, imagine a square. It is basecoated in lets say medium blue and I highlight with light blue from middle to bottom. But I am not able to get the transition there is alway a nasty line where i want the transition to be. It's like it's painted with 1:1 mix of paint to water, like I don't want the transition to be there. As I said i will paint more, practice makes master and I will see how it turns out
ReplyDeletePerhaps the use of glaze medium or matte medium might help too.
ReplyDeleteSo I did some more glazing practice today and I must say it's little bit better. David said that the difference between basecoat and glaze should be close so I made more highlight tones, problem is I oouldn't make much contrast of it. I think the problem here was the basecoat. I used old Citadel green paints, and they tend to have rather satin finish which from what I've heard (and experienced today) it makes acrylics harder to stick and make soft highglights/shadows. Do you guys think some matt medium would help?(like Tim suggested) I have some of the Tamiya Flat base at hand so I wonder if it will work? I tend to paint with Citadel paints because that is what I currently have (with some exeptions - Vallejo Model Color) I have variety of their older tones before they went with crazy names in 2012 (some standart tones and also Foundation paints - is it possible to do glazing with them, they seem to have more pigment-). I will try again some glazing, thank you guys
ReplyDelete